Tribute to Selwa

I spent the morning today with my neighbour Selwa (I think I may have mentioned her?), in her kitchen. I try to go see more often than not - an Iraqi widow, she lives alone with her two sons, she doesn't see people much, and I know she appreciates the company. Born to a British mother, her English is near spotless, and our conversations are not limited to small talk 'à la Canadienne' (about the weather- ha!). Instead she tells me stories of Iraq thirty years ago, of how beautiful it was; she explains how she waited thirteen years to marry the man she loved, only to lose him some two and a half years later to Saddam Hussein; she speaks of her ill mother, who has been sick (literally) with grief since her son's (Selwa's brother) death. She always finishes her stories with a sad smile though, and an 'Allah Kareem' - God is generous. Her faith is unlike anything I've seen before - not blind and automatic, but deliberate and genuine. She's read other holy books (Torah, Bible), and discusses mindfully the rationale behind Islamic teachings (such was the topic of our conversation last night). Her faith is her own, and she projects no judgement on the actions or beliefs of others, making her a truly enlightening conversation partner. Plus, she has a great sense of humour, so there's always a great deal of joking to go with our serious talk.

So as I mentioned, I was with her this morning, for a lesson on Iraqi cooking. 'Dolma' was the meal of the day; originally a Turkish meal, it became the Iraqi national dish. I've put up some pictures taken during the preparation, which is a little long, but quite simple. Briefly, it's stuffed vegetables (onions, tomatoes, peppers, zucchini, eggplant) and grapevine leaves, stuffed with rice, minced meat and spices, layered in a pot and cooked on stovetop.


I could tell you the exact recipe, but then I'd have to kill you - haha - I'd rather master it here and impress you all when I return to Canada. Let's just say it involves a whole head of garlic, a lot of olive oil, some curry powder and seven spices (can I get that in Canada or should I stock up here?) - scrumptious! I've never eaten such soft (but not mushy) and flavorful vegetables. We made two pots - one for her and her sons, one for my roommates and I.

I know I will be here for some time still, and perhaps it is a bit early to pay tribute to Selwa, but she is part of my life here, and I thought it fit that you know just the kind of people I am meeting here. She is one of the kindest, and most hospitable people I've met. She's always got different kinds of biscuits when we stop in for tea, and has baked since I've been here, two (or three?) apple pies, and one chocolate cake. Whenever we have guests at the apartment (which has been remarkably often since my arrival alone), she invites them all over. It's only proper she says - that's how she it's done when new neighbours arrive, or when you move somewhere new; bring them something to eat as a gift, and/or invite them to your home for tea or a meal. She's befriended all the girls who have lived here, past and present, welcoming us and our guests. I know this isn't much of a tribute, and that these words don't do justice to her character, so I hope some of you will visit, and have a chance to meet this great woman. I didn't think I would get affected by this trip or the people I meet on it, but her strength, faith and hospitality are truly inspirational, and I realize now I will not come back to Canada unchanged.